Location: |
Armeni 730 03.
Near Kyriakoselia. (35.406763, 24.107193) |
Open: |
no restrictions. [2024] |
Fee: |
free. [2024] |
Classification: | Cave Church |
Light: | n/a |
Dimension: | |
Guided tours: | self guided |
Photography: | allowed |
Accessibility: | no |
Bibliography: | |
Address: | Spilaio Agios Mamas, Armeni 730 03. |
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The tiny cave church Σπηλαιο αη Μαμας (Spilaio Agios Mamas, Saint Mamas Cave) is located on the road from Samona to Kiriakosellia. The landscape is mountainous, the hills show bare limestone cliffs, there are small Greek Orthodox churches every 50 m, and every hill seems to have a ruined castle on top. Here it's the late 12th century Byzantine Fortress Agios Nikolaos Fort, and the Church of St. Paraskevi. When you approach from the other side of the valley, you can see the Ναος Αγίου Νικολάου (Church of Saint Nikolaus) below and the cave church built into a huge cave portal at the foot of the cliff, uphill. Just follow the road, there is a turn-off to the left which is signposted. The road to the chapel is very narrow, so we recommend parking here at the road and walk five minutes.
The whereabouts of the place are a little vague. However, it is a church which is still in use, and outside the yearly festival on 02-SEP, when it is very crowded, it is peaceful and open for believers. As always in churches, be respectful and leave a small donation. A few details about the Saint after which the cave church was named. Saint Mamas is a Saint of the Greek Orthodox Church and little known to other Christians. Actually, there are two stories, and we guess these are two different people named Mamas, but we were not able to find out which is venerated here.
He lived during the reign of emperor Aurilianos who exercised a systematic campaign against the Christians (270-275 AD). His parents Theodotos and Roufina were Christians and were thus arrested and imprisoned. Roufina was pregnant at the time, and gave birth to Mamas while in prison. Theodotos was already dead and never saw his child, and Roufina died soon after. Mamas was raised by a lady called Ammia Matrona, which seems to be a description, not a name. Like his parents he turned towards the teaching of Christianity during his teenage years, was arrested at the age of 15, was tortured and finally killed.
Saint Mamas is typically presented riding a lion while holding a stick with his right hand and a sheep in his left arm. He was a monk living in a cave near the town of Morphou. He was arrested by the Ottoman authorities because he was refusing to pay tax. Led to court by the policemen they came across a lion chasing a sheep. He called the lion to stop and come to him, which the wild animal did. Mamas rode on the lion's back holding the sheep in his hand, all the way to the court. When the judge saw this, he ordered his release and granted him exclusion from taxation. St Mamas gave the sheep as a gift to the judge. St Mamas is the patron saint of tax avoiders.
The description of Tony Oldham below gives the standard legend of the "boiled meat". Numerous websites tell exactly the same story, but it took us a while to understand the point. Greece is famous for grilled meat, gyros and souflaki. Cooking meat in water is uncommon, and that's obviously the point.
The road continues beyond the church and climbs up out of the valley. On the mountainside is a cave with a small church, called Agios Mamas, inside it. On the feast day of the church, boiled meat is eaten. It is thought that this custom is a direct descendant from the animal sacrifice of the ancient god Pan. Evidence of animal sacrifice have been found in the cave.
Text by Tony Oldham (2002). With kind permission.